The first Couple of Weeks...

Set Boundaries now!

 

New Baby Info!

 

Diet - What I feed
First days with Baby
Baby Checklist

The information above will provide you a basic idea of what to expect. If you have further questions, feel free to ask!

   

 

Plans for 2011!

 

New Species!

We are cutting back on our Hahn's Macaws, and other New World species and focusing more on the Poicephalus birds. To that end, we are planning to offer Red-Bellieds, Orange vested Senegals, and Meyers Parrots as well as Timneh Greys in 2010-2011.

   

 

Neat Stuff!

 

Articles

Some of my articles, or articles I've reprinted with permission are under a link on my site. Check them out!

   

 

 

What to Expect?

 


Your new bird will be tired and stressed and possibly frightened when you get it. Either it's been shipped or hand-delivered, it has still been transported in a weird carrier, and it has gone from the safety of all it’s known to a new environment and new people. Speak gently to your new baby and move in a slow, soothing manner to keep it from getting more frightened. If the baby is biting at you, it's not being aggressive; it's frightened and acting defensively.

Regardless of your baby being shipped or delivered, it might not want to come out of its carrier at first. Open the door and the baby should walk out on its own. If it doesn't, try tilting the opening up a small amount as birds naturally want to be on the highest area and into the light. If your baby is excessively frightened, you might want to gently use a towel and place your baby in its new cage so it can feel a perch under its feet and feel more secure. Cover the back and top of the cage with a towel, leaving the front open and uncovered. Keep yourself by the cage and continue to soothingly talk to your bird until it settles down. Let your baby see your face and hear your voice so it can get to recognize that you're a 'Good Thing' and not a scary monster. If your bird is curious coming out of the carrier, calmly ask it to step up and handle it for a few minutes, then put it into its cage so it can check out its new home and drink some water.

For the first few days, place food in several places around the cage; in a food cup, on the floor of the cage, add spray millet here and there. These are areas I place food in weaning cages and your baby will remember that and feel more secure as it adjusts to your home and you. Chunks of fresh corn on the cob, grape halves and apple slices as well as a bit of dry seed are usually winners. If your baby won't eat anything but dry seed for a couple of days, don't panic. It's getting used to everything and is eating comfort food. Once it settles in and you become buddies, then you can stop the seed eating. It really won't take very long.

If you're concerned, DO NOT hesitate to call or email me. That's what I'm here for! You didn't think I was going to leave you without any support, didja? ;)

The Cage:

 This will be your baby's home, so it's best to think "bigger is better". Sure, a Sun Conure fits fine into a Cockatiel cage, but Conures are very curious and active birds and the more room your baby has, the happier it will be and the more it will be inclined to entertain itself when it needs to. Inside your cage, you want to have several toys (I usually buy 5 toys per bird and keep 3 inside the cage, so I can cycle them out so they don't get boring), perches – rope is fine and natural wood is best, differing diameters is good for giving foot workouts, decent sized food cups - locking is best, especially with Conures - they'll pull them off if they can't fasten securely, and a decent sized water cup. I personally dislike water bottles - but that's your decision. Keep in mind that any water cup you have will turn into a bath tub sooner or later (sooner with Conures!) and your bird will need its water changed several times a day if possible.

 

Food:

Your baby will be weaned on fresh foods, some pellets and very little dry seed. One of the main items I use for all my birds, including my weaning birds is freshly sprouted grains and beans. You can't beat them for power packed nutrients! I also feed fresh greens like spinach and kale, all manner of safe fruits and veggies and a small amount of pellets, seeds and nuts. Please do not feed your baby a primarily seed diet. It's not good for them at all. Would you eat fast food 3 times a day, every day of the week? It would soon kill you. Same goes with seeds for your baby.

 

The First Week & After:

Scenario 1: You might be thinking to yourself "Oh god, I thought I was getting a friendly bird!" the first, second, even third day. Your bird may be nippy, it may hate to be touched, and it may hide in its cage. This is called the settling in time. Patience. It takes about 4 days for your bird to return to the happy, loving, curious baby that was sent to you. Also, make sure your baby gets enough sleep - at least 8-10 hours of dark, quiet sleep a night. A cranky, sleepy bird is a confrontation waiting to happen.

Scenario 2: Unlike scenario 1, this is what happens to those who start out with a first week of a loving, curious, affectionate baby. Experienced bird owners like to call this "The Honeymoon is over" period. That sweet darling is now biting and fluffing up and rolling its cute little head at you. It even hissed!  The advice I give in either scenario is the same (and btw, if you were the bird owner in scenario 1? Scenario 2 is coming for you too!); Patience. Your baby is testing the perimeters of your relationship! Just like any kid! Be loving but firm. Set the limits; don't let your bird set them. This bratty period will pass once your baby realizes you're not going to give into his every demand and behavior testing and tantrum. This may require some time outs or a stern look and "No Bite!” It will pass if you lovingly discipline your baby as he grows. Like I said, just like a kid.

 

Spring Lovin':

Even your baby is going to feel 'that time of the year'; Breeding Season. Oh, it usually won't be sexually mature, but that doesn't mean it won't have some hormonal outbursts - think of teenagers. Usually youngsters don't react much, but some do! Most of my birds get sexually mature between 2 and 5 years. However, Green-cheeks can be sexually mature at 8 months old! Be prepared for spring and a couple of weeks of behavior changes. Lessen the amount of light it gets by a couple of hours and don't pet it on back, tail and under the wings for a few weeks and you should be able to ride this season out fine. Your baby will soon return to your sweet friend.